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By: Wayne Ayers Florida during the late 1800s was a
paradise waiting to be discovered. By the dawn of the 20th Century, the state
would be transformed from a vast wilderness visited mainly by invalids and a
few adventurous “excursionists” into a prime “grand tour” destination of the
rich and famous. Florida’s metamorphosis from America’s
last frontier to vacation resort of the nation’s elite was accomplished by
two visionary entrepreneurs, who set out in separate ventures but with a
remarkably similar vision and mission. The integrated transportation
and accommodation networks built by Henry M. Flagler and Henry B. Plant
along Florida’s east and west coasts, respectively, in the late 19th Century
established a tourism infrastructure that would carry forward to the 21st
Century. The legacy left by Flagler and Plant includes
six restored grand hotel structures, each an architectural treasure, a network
of railroads that continues to serve the state’s commercial transportation
needs, and a fascinating array of antiques and memorabilia that promoted their
enterprises. A honeymoon visit by Henry Flagler and his new
bride Ida Alice to the ancient city of St. Augustine during the brutal northern
winter of 1883-1884 proved to be the catalyst for his grand venture. The ancient city’s unique character and balmy
climate left a deep impression on Flagler, and the couple made plans to return
the following year. Arriving for his 1885 visit, Flagler noted
changes taking place that kindled his visionary spirit. The opening of the San
Marco Hotel gave the city a first-class hostelry, and a new rail transportation
network provided greater accessibility for the well-heeled tourists that Flagler
would look to accommodate. Soon, Flagler was stirring with grandiose
plans for a hotel of his own, which would surpass anything yet envisioned for
the Florida frontier. On December 1, 1885 Flagler began construction
of his first and most grandiose hotel, the Ponce de Leon. Two years later, on
January 10, 1888, the hotel opened with a glittering three-day celebration that
featured balls, dinners and parties… illuminated by thousands of electric
lights. Guests for the event arrived in first-class
comfort on Flagler’s Florida East Coast Railway. Arrival of the first vestibule
train on opening day signaled the city’s accessibility to gilded patrons who
could now travel in style to reach the paradise resort Flagler had prepared for
them. Within two years, in time for the opening of
the 1890 tourist season, Flagler would have completed his second St. Augustine
hotel, the Spanish Renaissance Alcazar, and purchased a third, the Casa Monica,
which he renamed Cordova. The hotels surrounded a lushly landscaped plaza that
provided guests with a tropical promenade to reach the popular recreation and
entertainment complex which Flagler created in the Alcazar. The Flagler hotels, all within a block of one
another near the heart of St. Augustine, became THE attraction in a city known
for its abundance of venerable sights. But Flagler’s fascination with St. Augustine
proved short-lived. By the early 1890s, his vision and focus would shift to an
even more lush paradise-waiting-to-be-discovered on Lake Worth, 250 miles to the
south. Over the years, as St. Augustine moved in and
out of fashion as a tourist attraction, Flagler’s hotel properties would see
usage changes. Today, each has undergone splendid restoration and feature much
to delight art and antiquity lovers. The Ponce de Leon is home to Flagler College.
Tours are hosted by college students who are able to point out the rich
symbolism that accompanies the murals, carvings and other objects that adorn the
facility. The city’s highly rated Lightner Museum
occupies the Alcazar across from the Ponce de Leon. The museum features an
extensive collection of Tiffany glass, antique mechanical music instruments,
plus fine and decorative arts. The famed Turkish and Russian baths have been
restored (but are not in use), and the sunken swimming pool is surrounded by
antique and craft dealers and a courtyard restaurant. Ironically, the least successful of the hotel
triumvirate, the Cordova, is the only one operating today as a hotel. The
four-diamond Casa Monica has earned a listing in Historic Hotels of America. By the mid-1890s, Flagler had extended his
Florida East Coast Railway to Lake Worth. Flagler chose Palm Beach, a desolate
barrier island between the lake and the Atlantic Ocean, as the site of his most
spectacular property, the Royal Poinciana. Opened in 1894, the hotel became a
magnet for the social elite and established Palm Beach as the premier location
for the rich and famous. A spur of the railroad delivered guests right to the
hotel, a feature that Flagler and his west coast competitor Henry Plant would
copy in their future undertakings. The hotel’s immense size is reflected in the
building materials used in its construction. These included 1,400 kegs of
nails, 5 million feet of lumber, 360,000 shingles, 4,000 barrels of lime,
500,000 bricks, 2,400 gallons of paint, 20 acres of plaster, 1,200 windows, and
1,800 doors. The Royal Poinciana proved so popular that it
was enlarged twice, doubling its size with each expansion. By the early 20th
Century, the hotel could tout a capacity to accommodate 2,000 guests, who were
well looked after by nearly 1,700 employees. Flagler also chose Palm Beach as the site of
his first and only hotel located directly on the beach… the Palm Beach Inn. The
hotel was renamed The Breakers because of its location “down by the breakers.”
The Breakers offered a more relaxed, informal style from the Royal Poinciana and
gained a devoted following despite its history of conflagration. Not until fire
destroyed the hotel for the third time in 1925 did its architects decide to
abandon wood in favor of a fireproof concrete construction. A palm walk for pedestrians and pine trail for
wheeled vehicles connected the hotels, giving guests at the Royal Poinciana
access to the beachfront and The Breakers patrons a promenade to alfresco
afternoon tea at Coconut Grove. Wheeled chairs powered by hotel employees
provided most transportation, as Flagler allowed no motorized vehicles on his
island. The close of the gilded age also brought an
end to the Royal Poinciana’s reign as queen of Florida’s elite resorts. The
hotel fell on hard times during the 1920s as its gilded patrons began to look on
the large Victorian hotels as relics of a bygone era. In 1934, the Royal
Poinciana closed for good and was torn down. The Breakers survived its three devastating
fires, and its latest incarnation in 1925 as an Italian Renaissance palace has
carried to the present day its reputation as the crème of resorts. A visit to the hotel on Wednesday afternoons
brings a real treat. That’s when historian James Augustine Ponce, the
consummate Mr. Breakers, gives his exclusive grand tour. Henry Flagler’s transformation of the Sunshine
State did not end at Palm Beach, however. A series of disastrous freezes during
the winter of 1894-95 and the proddings of Miami entrepreneur Julia Tuttle
caused him to extend his railroad, and his vision, to the mouth of the Miami
River. In January 1897, Flagler opened the five-story
Royal Palm Hotel, with accommodations for 700 guests and a dining room seating
500 people, in the town of Miami, population 2,000. The hotel would dominate
Miami social life for more than two decades, as the city grew to world-class
resort status itself, surrounding its most prominent feature. Flagler owned several smaller hotel properties
in other Florida locations, but his greatest contribution was bringing grand
luxury accommodations along with rail transport to the state’s East Coast. That
accomplishment put Florida at the top of the grand tour for gilded travelers. Today, Flagler’s legacy includes the four
grand properties, each magnificently restored, along with a treasure trove of
antiques, collectible items and memorabilia relating to the structures and the
lifestyle surrounding them. The larger and more patronized hotels – the Ponce
de Leon, Royal Poinciana, and Royal Palm – have spawned the most items.
Decorative china, plates, tip trays, small vases and pitchers are relatively
common. Less seen are items depicting The Breakers,
particularly the early incarnations, and the Alcazar and Cordova/Casa Monica. A
rare serving dish from the Casa Monica was purchased by the author off of eBay.
Rarer still are items from Flagler’s less known hotels that he acquired. A
ceramic dish from the Hotel Ormond set off an intense eBay bidding contest,
going for over $200. Paper ephemera such as early promotional
brochures, souvenir booklets, menus, etc. can be found at collectible shows and
on-line sites.
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